Chaukori - Up Close With Nanda Devi

 Chaukori is not for everyone! If you ask me to describe Chaukori in brief this will be my reply. It's serene secluded, a tiny little village with hardly 20-25 families. It doesn't have the basics to be a tourist destination - a taxi stand, a restaurant or a souvenir shop. But what it has is gorgeous Himalayan views, and some very friendly people who will make your stay memorable.

Himalayan Range From Chaukori Tea Garden

After a 3 hour silky smooth drive from Almora via Barechina-Dhaulchina-Sheraghat-Berinag when we reached Chaukori it was almost 1 p.m. Most of the Kumauni’s were taking a siesta by then. So the place looked completely desolated. We straight headed towards the KMVN TRC.
It was early April, still offseason in Kumaon. So getting a room with the best possible view was not of any problem. The very hospitable manager suggested us room number 201, the top floor corner most super deluxe room. We readily checked in and freshened up. The long journey had made us hungry, so after a tasty meal, we went for a quick nap.

Sunset Colors at Chaukori

On the afternoon we just sat on our balcony enjoying the Himalayan view. The location of KMVN is absolutely superb. It sits on top of the highest hill in Chaukori, giving a 180 degree panoramic view of the Himalayan snow peaks. From left to right we could see Nandaghunti, Trishul, Mrigathuni, Nanda devi, Nanda devi east, Matkoli, Nandakhat, Panchachulli, and Annapurna in Nepal. It was slightly cloudy in the afternoon, which is pretty usual during spring season. So even though the snow peaks were visible, they didn't appear at their majestic best. But still the rolling hills, the cool breeze laden with the Himalayan scent, and the peaceful ambience made it a perfect place to relax and escape our busy city life.

The Twin Peaks of Nanda Devi at Chaukori

A cup of piping hot tea and some sumptuous onion pakora are the perfect companion in such an atmosphere. We also didn't deprive ourselves from that pleasure. As time progressed, the clouds build up further, and we had a short spell of hailstorm in the late afternoon. Once the storm was over Chaukori appeared bright and sunny, in its refreshing best, and the bonus was a rainbow stretching itself on the horizon.


The sunset suffused its tangerine paint in the snow peaks, and the chirping of the mountain birds returning to their nest created a perfect end note for the day.

The wee hours in the morning are the best time to enjoy the mountain views. Chaukori is no different. It was freezing cold when we got up at 5 am in the morning to enjoy the sunrise. The sky was crystal clear, it was still dark, and under the starry sky in front of us we could see the majestic Himalayan snow peaks standing! Chaukori is the place to enjoy Nanda devi at its majestic best. The twin peaks – Nanda devi and Nanda devi east looks tantalizingly close from here.

Himalaya From KMVN Chaukori Lawn

 Slowly the sun came out from behind the Panchachulli peaks and as the first rays hit the Nanda devi twin peaks – it turned crimson red. Gradually it turned gold and when the sun came out completely it was dazzling in its snowy white. In front of us we now could see the majestic Himalayan range under the crystal clear blue sky.

Trishul - From Chaukori

After a filling breakfast with alu parantha and sabzi, we went for a stroll along the nooks and corner of Chaukori. Chaukori once had a tea garden and was boasting of Uttaranchal tea. But its heydays are gone. The deserted tea factory is almost in its ruins now. But the view from the desolated factory building is fantastic. The place is almost 500 metres from KMVN. From here we had a clear view of Trishul. Trishul looks quite different in Chaukori than what it appears in Kausani. It is off course much closer in Chaukori, but the famous trident shape is somewhat missing from Chaukori.

View from the tea factory

We spend the day doing nothing. Sometimes sitting in the KMVN lawn enjoying the view, and sometimes watching the snow peaks in complete awe from our balcony. We had plans to visit patal bhubaneshwar cave, but when you have the hypnotizing Himalayan snow peaks in front of you, you could hardly move!

The weather god scripted the same story for us in the afternoon - A spell of shower on the late afternoon, and then Chaukori once again coming up bright and sunny. The tweeting mountain birds once again made a perfect endnote for our last night in Chaukori!